This bright Ribble Valley dining room is a local hero both for the unerring quality of its food and tireless championing of Lancashire ingredients. In the hands of Nigel Haworth, black pudding and hotpot are raised from mundane to moderne. There may be asparagus from Formby, shrimps from Southport and beef fillet from the Forest of Bowland – as well as, naturally, Mrs Kirkham’s cheese with bramley jelly for afters. It’s a reet good, as I believe they say in these parts.