Local produce and local dishes were on the menu at the Chef Eats Out lunch at Northcote manor where guests enjoyed a masterclass in “terroir” cooking… and food-and-wine matching
The North of England has an enviable reputation for double acts. Remember Eric Morcambe and Ernie Wise? Well, the hospitality world has its own version: Nigel Haworth and Craig Bancroft, the co-owners of Langho’s Michelin starred Northcote Manor.
The duo are past masters of cracking a joke or two and setting their guests at ease, so it was no surprise that the 35 visiting chefs attending the last Chef Eats Out of 2005, two weeks ago, which Haworth and Bancroft hosted went home with a healthy glow of contentment about them.
They had been treated to a showcase of Lancashire produce in Haworth’s five course menu at the event. Organised by Caterer & Hotelkeeper in association with the British Pig Executive (BPEX). Bancroft’s wine matches were equally impressive, as were his colourful and down to earth descriptions of them.
The general consensus among the visiting chefs was that all of Haworth’s dishes hit the spot, proving that true, gutsy terroir of cooking has its place amid the more mind-bending cuisine of today’s kitchens. Particular praise was heaped on the simplest offerings: a locally produced Lancashire Curd Cheese served warm with a pitch-perfect egg (from Northcote’s organically reared hens), a crisp strip of bacon and some tomato caviar.
And there was an appreciative hush resounding around the room as everyone tucked into the centrepiece of the meal, a fillet and trotter of locally reared Gloucester Old spot port served with puree potatoes and some spicy white cabbage. “superb” “fantastic” were just two reactions from a table of the several “enemy” chefs from Yorkshire.
Prior to the lunch, Haworth has talked candidly about his and Bancroft’s other businesses, revealing the astonishing success of their latest venture. The Three Fishes pub in nearby Mitton launched just last September (6,500 covers in the second month) he also admitted that it had been a tough challenge to keep up standards and turnover in the competitive world of football catering at their F&B contract at Blackburn Rovers FC. He also unveiled plans to refurbish the whole of the public areas at Northcote as well as 14 of its bedrooms next year. As they say, watch this space.